My impulsive travel-to-forget plan last year yielded a lot of happy memories. It made me realize that I should invest more in these experiences. Spain was the first Schengen country that I travelled to. And, expectedly, my 2023 Madrid travel was one of the most enjoyable and memorable one I’ve had, even if it’s too short (I was there for roughly about 4 days).
Here are my favourite memories of Madrid:
Cuesta de Moyano (Moyano Slope)
Perhaps one of my favourite random finds walking through the streets of Madrid. This is Cuesta de Moyano (or more popularly known as the Moyano Slope), famed for its street filled with books stalls selling antiquarian and second hand books. Reading up, this is also the venue for Madrid’s annual Feria del Libro (Madrid Book Fair). It was a feast for the eyes. It was really hot during my visit last September so stumbling across this book heaven is like seeing an oasis in the middle of the desert. Granted all the titles I’ve seen were all in Spanish, it was still a sight to behold. You know seeing books makes me happy all the time. 😉
Strolling through El Retiro Park
Musicians all around. Rowers and boats in the middle of the Retiro Park Lake. People in sunglasses, drinking / dining al fresco. Walking through El Retiro Park with an iced coffee in hand is such a treat. I didn’t do a lot here, honestly, but I think walking through the tree-lined streets of Retiro Park is something you shouldn’t miss. There were a lot of locals and tourists both. So this is the perfect place to people watch as well. It covers 125 hectares, with more than 15,000 trees, and is recently named a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s quite a walk, so it’s a good thing I had on comfortable sandals!
Unique and romantic souvenirs
One of the most unique and memorable souvenirs I’ve ever gotten for myself: a bespoke, impromptu poem. I was strolling through El Retiro when I came across this writer, Arantxa Vasquez (@arantxavaz_), selling personalized poems for however much you wanna pay. We talked for a bit, and she asked me a couple of questions about where I am right now in my life and what I am feeling. And then, with an old man singing operatically in the background entertaining the park strollers and staring across the lake, she began to type. I was expecting a haiku-sized poem but she ended up giving me a really long one. It’s one of my most treasured souvenirs. She even recited it for me. I love it so much! (I also was able to get a photo of mine taken by a random person and had it printed right there. It was really cute.)
Photoshoot with a bit of historical tour
As with my previous solo travel, I tried to book a photoshoot again because it was so much fun. It was supposed to be a group but I ended up getting a private session. It’s a walking photoshoot, with a bit of historical tour on the side. We walked through the city centre, had some pictures along San Gines, then finished off around the Royal Palace of Madrid and its gardens. If ever you find yourself travelling alone, I really recommend this experience! I think it’s gonna be a staple in mine. 😁 (Photos were taken by Giovanni of The Cultural Streets; check out his work!)
Walking tour in the Literary Quarter
Since I didn’t really set out to bookshop- or library-hop in this travel because my itinerary was packed already, I booked this walking tour along Madrid’s famous Barrios de las Letras (Literary Quarter). It ended up being a private tour. My guide, Emily, was really nice and was really knowledgeable in the nooks and crannies of the place and made it a point to ask beforehand if there is any point of history that I would want to focus. I’ve come to know that a lot of great literary figures walked these streets during the Spanish Golden Age. She even showed me the pub that Hemingway was said to frequent, people watch, and write. And the church where the remains of Miguel de Cervantes, author of Don Quixote, is said to lie. There is also the house/museum of the famous dramatist Lope de Vega. Now I am really not that familiar with Spanish literature, only Cervantes rang a bell among the iconic ones – but it was a truly interesting experience.
Live Flamenco Performance
I didn’t know Flamenco was this intense! I booked a ticket for a live performance by Essential Flamenco and they performed for us in a 100+ year-old historic cave in the midst of the city. We were welcomed with a huge glass of sangria. Then we were led to the main room, had a bit of Flamenco history lesson, and then an hour of amazing Flamenco show. Since this is inside a cave, the venue was really intimate. I was lucky enough to sit in the dead center, literal front row, for the whole of the performance it was magical and intoxicating. Truly an unforgettable experience!
Vibrant night life
Such a vibrant night life is a bit of a shock since I already grew accustomed to everything closing down at 6 to 8-ish in the evening here in Europe. But Madrid was buzzing! With the culture of siesta (a short nap taken in the afternoon), shops are expected to close around 2 or 3 PM, and expected to open again at 5 or 6PM – resulting to longer opening times. I went back to my AirBnB, had a nap, and went out again at around 9-ish PM to meet up with a friend. I thought it was weird that we’re starting so late (because in Belfast, people start at 4PM for pre-drinks lol) but it was, from what I gathered, the norm. Climbed up to Puerta del Sol from the train station and witnessed a lot of people (families with kids and young adults alike) in the public square, humming along and watching street performers. It was such a nice vibe. We ended up partying and bar-hopping in town till 4 or 5 AM-ish. I got a bit drunk. Ate after-drinks pizza. I had fun. Danced my heart out. I started my October with a hangover but it was worth it. It was glorious.
The Food!
I could write a whole post about the food even if, objectively, I really didn’t eat that much. It was just nice having to explore food while walking around and going to random restaurants without expectation. From random cafes I found while strolling to actually being able to enter and eat at Restaurante Botín (the oldest restaurant in the world, according to the Guinness Book of World Records) even if we didn’t have a reservation – it’s just been full of surprises. Here are my favorites: Huevos Camperos + Cecina (Eggs, Potatoes and Ham) from Taberna Filomena (for breakfast, with a side of coffee, lol); Tinto de Verano (for drinks, and maybe a Sangria); Pastries (especially the Napolitana de Chocolate, which is basically their version of Chocolate Croissant) from La Mallorquina; Churros and hot chocolate from Chocolatería San Gines; Gambas al Ajillo (Garlic Shrimp) from La Casa del Abuelo. And of course, a lot of jamón jamón jamón from everywhere (I got cheap sandwiches at Museo del Jamón). I didn’t even get to eat Manchego or Paella at the source because it slipped my mind, but we’ll get there. It was treat for my food-loving heart!
There’s just too much to cram into this single post. Thank you to Abby and Jed, friends from Madrid, that patiently entertained me and toured me even if they don’t have to. I met a couple of really cool people. Ate a lot of good food. Crossed off some bucket list items. And experienced a lot of new things. I barely scraped the surface – I haven’t even visited a single museum (which I heard would be overwhelming because they are so big). It’s crazy how one place can hold so much!
The above photo of me stepping into ‘Origen de las carreteras radiales‘, located in the center of Puerta del Sol, is particularly special to me. This is the Kilometer Zero mark in which all main roads in Spain radiate, so stepping on it is basically being in the literal center of Spain. This is the most important ‘point’ in Madrid. They said that if you stepped on it, you are guaranteed to go back to this place. And even if I hadn’t, I know that I will definitely come back. Me encantas, Madrid! 💃
(P.S. I truly loved using Spanish words in this post! Though I initially thought that I would survive with my broken Spanish since Tagalog is closely tied to it (+my 2 weeks of Duolingo), it sadly is still wasn’t enough. I could do words, but not understand a lot if it’s full sentences. The place is tourist friendly but I am really glad that my friends helped me out most of the time.)
📍 Madrid, Spain 🇪🇸
September 29 – October 2, 2023
Pages and Coffee Cups 